Rick Steves: The highlights of happening Helsinki

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Helsinki offers offbeat architecture, a taste for distinctive design, and an appealing Finnish personality

Helsinki — Europe’s youngest and northernmost capital city — feels like an outpost of Europe. While it lacks the cutesy cobbles of Copenhagen, the aristocratic setting of Stockholm, or the futuristic vibe of Oslo, Helsinki holds its own among Nordic capitals with its creative spirit, zest for architecture and design, and a steamy love of saunas.

Helsinki is buffered by more than 300 islands, and its harbour is always busy. Frequent passenger ferries cross the Baltic Sea from Stockholm, Tallinn, and even St. Petersburg. The arrival of cruise ships — sliding through tight passages between the surrounding islands — energizes the city each day. Mighty ice breakers moored in their summer slumber are the only reminder of the bitter Baltic winters.

Then delve into the boutiques of the Design District for some of Europe’s most eye-pleasing fashion and home decor. A surprising number of global trends — from Marimekko’s patterned fabrics to Nokia’s pioneering mobile phones to the Angry Birds gaming empire — have been born right here in design-conscious Helsinki.

Overall, I find Finns to be pretty quiet and contemplative. I once wandered into a flea market in Helsinki, closed my eyes, and listened to the soundtrack of 300 Finns. It was almost silent — I could have been in a mountain meadow. So I was surprised to discover the Finnish love affair with lotteries and gambling. Slot machines and games of chance are everywhere, including restaurants and supermarkets, manned by Finns eagerly stuffing in coins.

 

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