Review: Vancouver’s new aperitivo bars allow you to keep your festive outings small, contained and delicious

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Vancouver’s new aperitivo bars allow you to keep your festive outings small, contained and delicious

The festive season is upon us and this year is going to be better. Or at least better than last year when banquets, cocktail parties and big fat family reunions were all off the table.

The modern aperitivo movement, as embraced by local wine bars, is also less circumscribed. It starts early in the afternoon and often stretches late into the evening, which gives you the opportunity to socialize when rooms aren’t as crowded. Aperitivo is served daily from 3 p.m. to 5 p.m., when the refrigerated deli case is covered up to create more standing-room space for nibbling sausage-wrapped olives and prosciutto crostini while tipping back discounted house wine and chinotto-spiked negronis.There is an amazing albacore crudo rubbed with orange zest – as lovely to smell as it is to devour – served in a fragrant pool of Meyer lemon juice with a green-and-orange mosaic of basil and Calabrian chili oils floating on top.

And if you’re really serious about hitting the off hours, drinks start pouring with breakfast sandwiches and pasta at 10 a.m. They include great cocktails, Italian craft beer , wild ciders , rare wines and the deepest selection of grappa and amari I’ve seen in Vancouver, all available in antique-crystal flights.

I do, however, recommend that you hike over to the kitchen and check out the crostini display before ordering.

 

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