The set is nicely presented on a wooden tray surrounded by condiments – hot mustard, tangy pickles, lemon wedges and a lemon-zest salt potent with palate-popping umami. Toasted sesame seeds come in a small mortar with a pestle. You grind the seeds to an aromatic powder, then mix it with a Worcestershire-based tonkatsu sauce and drizzle it over the meat.The all-you-can-eat components are nothing to get excited about. The rice is barely warm and clumpy. The tonjiru broth is watery.
The aesthetics are pleasant. It’s a stylish hole-in-the-wall appointed in pale wood, bright lights and clean lines. The service is warm and friendly even when dealing with impatient customers who might sign up outside and be present when their name is called. They won’t take phone numbers and text you when your table is ready, but they will take your order just before you are seated.Still, I don’t understand the appeal.
Granted, Kingyo only serves its tonkatsu set at lunch. And the restaurant also gets very busy, although it does take reservations. And the pork? Oh, my gosh. There is no comparison. It’s so much more juicy, fatty and well seasoned. The breading is not as crunchy, but it’s golden and less greasy. The cabbage is more finely shredded and plentiful enough without refills. The rice is fluffy. The sesame dressing is perfectly balanced. The miso soup has depth and big slivers of daikon and mushroom.
The Globe and Mail’s articles not worth $1.99 a week.
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