Review: Keep calm and eat king crab at B.C.'s New Fishport Seafood Bistro

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The first shipment of Alaskan king crab arrived on Tuesday and prices are going down – retailing for about $38 a pound

Basket of trimmed Alaskan king crab legs presented for table side poaching in seaweed broth at New Fishport Seafood Bistro in Vancouver, on Feb. 25, 2020.The other night, at New Fishport Seafood Bistro, our table of seven was licking the last crumbs of pineapple-bun pot pies filled with creamy Alaskan king crab and black truffle when my friend Vicky received an alarming text from her brother.

First, a little culinary history: The Alaskan king crab festival was a beloved tradition in Metro Vancouver, going back to the mid-1980s and lasting until a few years ago. At the tail end of the fishing season, usually mid-March, the last of the live catch would be shipped to Vancouver in large quantities and offered, at most Cantonese restaurants, in two-, three- and four-course feasts at substantially reduced prices.

Then came coronavirus. With most North American flights to China suspended until April, the Alaskan suppliers had to turn back to their closest neighbours when the fishery reopened this week. The first shipment arrived on Tuesday and prices are going down – retailing for about $38 a pound.At New Fishport Seafood Bistro, a six-month-old restaurant on SE Marine Drive, it costs $48 a pound.

New Fishport has another secret weapon: master chef Sam Leung, formerly of Dynasty Seafood Restaurant, who quietly re-emerged here after a two-year retirement. Third course: Crab leg shabu shabu, carefully cooked over low heat in a milky seaweed broth, until the white flesh flowered into thin, feathered nodules.

 

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