A friend driving to Alberta last week made the mistake of not checking online for highway conditions. Highway 1 through Kicking Horse Canyon, east of Golden, closes nightly for construction, catching my friend in Golden at 10:30 p.m. without a hotel room booked.The . When finished, likely by the end of 2023, the highway will be a wider, smooth 21st-century high-speed roadway, with room even for cyclists.
A 1927 guide to the then-new “Kicking Horse Trail Scenic Highway from Lake Louise, Alberta to Golden, British Columbia” describes the route appropriately. Author M.B. Williams’s prose mirrors the winding, narrow dirt road that cut through old-growth, over avalanche chutes, along cliffs and across one-lane timber bridges over the tumbling glacial river.
The guidebook is as influenced by the times, traditions and circumstances it was created in as the highway it describes.
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