. There is a specific glee in the ability to conjure Proustian recollection with a single, replicable bite. White Whales are a personal pursuitChocolate chip cookies were such an obsession of mine. A collection of years and about 700 cookies later , I found my standard, as published in my cookbook.That said, the seas are still fraught with other foes.
The pressed, pickled peppers our next door neighbour made when I was growing up is another. I’ve asked for the recipe, but it’s been lost to the ages, and a time before the internet. Those peppers were sweetly vinegared, with a purr of heat. They were staggeringly good on pizza., Portuguese egg tarts. The simple tarts – plain custard baked in a multilayered puff pastry shell – got my attention years ago, at a mention from my father.
Fast forward to last month and an extended stay in Lisbon. A friend and I played Goldilocks with the versions of natas from six differentover five days. One was too greasy. Another, too bland. Another fine, but unremarkable. In that intensive research, it was devised that my idealwould have a deeply flavoured custard. More egg than dairy, but still tender-set. I settled on tarts that were, or dark, left to tan in the oven longer than others so the top is tortoiseshell-mottled.
With every bite, I strategized making my own. Imagine the surprise upon returning home then, to unexpectedly find a recipe forby Emily Elyse Miller. The sturdy tome covers the first meal of the day as eaten around the world; and tucked toward the end were egg tarts accompanied byMiller’s version hits many of my listed requirements. They are baked at high heat so the filling soufflés, then falls, creating a distinct skin on the custard before it gives way to the smooth interior.
As said though, White Whale recipes are unique to the maker. For me, I want a hefty pinch of salt in my custard, and even more vanilla. I am tempted to make my own dough for the shell, with cultured, European-style butter for that much more depth.Pastéis de Nata 1 10-inch-by-15-inch sheet all-butter puff pastry, store-bought or homemade, thawed according to package instructions if frozen
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