Zoot suit: How the bold look made history and continues to influence fashion

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Zoot suit: How the bold look made history and continues to influence fashion
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The zoot suit was villified by L.A. authorities during the Zoot Suit Riots in 1943. But its dandy-ish profile continues to influence fashion

“This was at a time when Mexicans and people of Mexican descent were not supposed to be seen. ... And for young people to stand on the street corner and announce their presence, this was a big deal.”Over the course of her career, conceptual artist Sandra de la Loza has made work that examines underexplored L.A. histories, including a recent piece inspired by the Lincoln Heights Jail, where many zoot suiters were held during the riots .

As with any look, young people generally gravitated to it not because it made a grand political statement, but because they thought it was cool. Ramirez interviewed a number of women who donned pachuca styles in the ’40s for her book. When asked why, the answer was simple: “I didn’t want to be square.”Naturally, its boldness and popularity made the zoot suit a target. Many parents hated the look. De la Loza remembers an anecdote about her grandmother burning one of her mother’s suits.

If at first the public attitude toward the suit had been one of bemusement, by the summer of 1943 it was being treated as a menace, Peiss writes, especially in L.A., where baseless rumors painted pachucos as gangsters and rapists.

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