Where to eat a traditional Japanese breakfast in Los Angeles

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Where to eat a traditional Japanese breakfast in Los Angeles
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Bill Addison considers morning meals at Azay, Fukagawa, Konbi and Gatsu Gatsu

I love morning foods of all kinds, and I worked through college scrambling eggs and cranking out waffles at a bed-and-breakfast in Boston. These days, though, after work meals out most nights, I rarely wake up wanting more than a few spoonfuls of yogurt or a handful of peanuts.When hunger does call early in the day, I’ve lately been finding my way toAkira Hirose

Azay is one of the few Los Angeles restaurants I know of that serves a traditional Japanese breakfast set — a variation on ichiju sansai, an array that consists of soup, rice and several side dishes — but the meal has been slowly making more appearances across the city. Hotel breakfasts in Japan can become elaborate feasts; the teishoku breakfasts available in restaurants in L.A.

Echo Park hasn’t quite lost its Japanese-style breakfasts yet. In November chefs Todd Chang and Johnny Lee began collaborating on, a monthly pop-up focusing on teishoku. Their first two menus came with either salmon shioyaki or gindara nitsuke along with the classics: rice, pickles, seasonal vegetables and miso soup.

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