New School cheese is trying to make a better, simpler American cheese.
. The hope is that by partnering with chefs first, Greenspan and Leavitt can start changing customers’ minds at the table, not the grocery store.
“It’s hard to imagine processed food being good. What’s good? Does that mean taste? Does it mean quality? Does it mean health?” asks Helen Veit, associate professor of history at Michigan State University, who specializes in food and nutrition of the 19th and 20th centuries. Today, most Americans’ blanket assumption about processed foods is that they are unhealthy. But during the advent of many food processing methods in the early 20th century, “processed” wasn’t really a bad word.
Anyone who has ever made fondue understands the appeal of adding emulsifiers to cheese to create a uniformly melty product, so perhaps it’s no surprise that processed cheese was first developed in 1911 in fondue-fond Switzerland. There, Walter Gerber and Fritz Stettler invented the process of heating cheese and mixing it with sodium citrate to create a smooth, uniform paste that would resolidify when cooled.
. In Illinois, James Kraft was working on a similar product, and received patents for processed cheese in 1916 and 1921, the latter of which was for processed cheese packaged in a loaf form. “It is believed that the 2.3 kg loaf was responsible for nearly doubling processed cheese consumption in the USA during this time period,” according to Ustunol.
Veit points out that these years were boom times for shelf-stable foods. “This was the era that gave us Crisco, for example. This was when boxed cereals and canned foods became normal sights on American grocery store shelves,” she says. It was also a time when the dangerous effects of adulterated, unregulated foods were fresh in the country’s memory.
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