My great-grandfather’s barbecue sauce was flavored by New York City, Georgia, Alabama and (who knows?) maybe San Antonio. It’s always under lock and key.
The folks now living in a red brick, one-story house in Columbus , Ga., don’t know that it was once home to a cigar-chomping barbecue pit master. From the early 1970s through the mid-1990s, the World War II veteran slathered his secret sauce on hundreds of pork rib racks and chicken drumsticks sizzling on a diamond-patterned metal grate. The briquettes cast a red glow into the night. Drippings from the hot, halved oil drum grill seeped into black backyard dirt.
This is like my chosen familia’: The gospel according to Taco Church He was my great-grandfather, though we called him Granddaddy. Theodore H. Martin had learned the art of barbecuing over a 20-year military career. I learned it at his side. In 1962, the man Army buddies called “Sarge” brought me on as his apprentice. My earliest memories are of barbecue smoke and sauce.
San Antonio’s 'whole breakfast in a taco' stays top of mind In the mid-1980s, we were stationed at Lowry AFB in Denver, and store-bought sauce wasn’t satisfying our taste buds. Granddaddy mailed the recipe to us, with the understanding it was for family eyes only. He’d put in years of work to achieve a balanced taste that didn’t overwhelm but enhanced the meat. He taught us to slowly cook each slab until it glazed with a reddish-gold glow.
Air Force ‘top’ had an artist’s eye and talent. Now his work is all over the country. One of my carry-on items on the flight back to Texas was a shoebox at my feet, tied with twine. My great-grandmother had packed it. “What’s in the box?” an older man sitting beside me asked. “Barbecue from home,” I replied. “It smells good,” he said. “Can I see?” “Nope, not opening it until I get home.” And I didn’t. The only person I shared each dish with was Diane, my future wife.
Air Force Grandaddy Army Taco Church Hush Puppies Atlanta Braves Lackland Diane Hav-A-Tampa Lela Mae Preer Theodore H. Martin Ariaga Willie Lou Martin Sgt South Georgia Alabama San Antonio New York City Columbus Phenix City Lackland Air Force Base Lowry Air Force Base Chinese Denver Texas Omaha World War II Korean Conflict Ariaga Sarge
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