The warmth of Black traditions around the Thanksgiving table

Black chefs across L.A. introduce us to the recipes that define their Thanksgiving holidays, including lamb biriyani, macaroni pie and carrot cake.

Golden sunlight that cascades through open windows. A hot oven and the friction of bodies moving in the kitchen. The earthy-sweet aroma of curry, cinnamon and cloves in the air. When I think of Black holiday gatherings, I recall warmth in all its iterations. With a diaspora that touches every corner of the globe, there is both overlap and incredible diversity among pan-African cuisines.

Now, there is rarely a standard menu for Thanksgiving dinner. This year Moju is making biriyani, with lamb for special-occasion flair. To pair with the saucy rice dish, Solitei made sukuma wiki, an easy dish you’ll find served as a side or main in Kenya, with tendrils of collard greens sauteed with garlic, tomato and fresh ginger.

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