The crispy, crackly pasta dish Neapolitans make every Lent is frittata di scammaro, a pantry pinch hitter flavored with anchovies, raisins, and pine nuts.
—scammaro sounds relatively light. And it is. In fact, scammaro is Neapolitan dialect for “lean,” precisely the genre of food the Catholic church mandated during Lent and other days of fasting.
I don’t get to Naples as often as I’d like, but Da Corrado, a cheese and wine stall in Rome’s Testaccio Market, makes a damn near perfect version. I love pulling up a chair and cutting into the crispy exterior—this is one of the few times cutting long pasta strands isn’t frowned upon in Italy. A few capers or pine nuts inevitably break free from their nest, tumbling down onto the plastic plate. , by Ippolito Cavalcanti, Duke of Buonvicino .
In spite of living a mile from the Vatican and having been baptized , I don’t have much of a relationship with the Church. But I do worship at the altar of flavor—hence my devotion to frittata di scammaro. If only we could all eat as well as fasting Neapolitans.
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