Ulmer died last month at 25, leaving colleagues shocked at the sudden loss of a passionate local star. His hisbiscus meringue at Enrique Olvera's Damian was a fan favorite.
It was one of his signature dishes: a chewy, pastel hibiscus meringue that is halved and shattered to reveal a chantilly beneath, all dusted with dehydrated hibiscus imported from Oaxaca. This dessert frequently steals the show for diners at the downtown Mexican restaurant Damian, and it was the creation of Joshua Ulmer.
Ulmer was born July 19, 1997, on Long Island, New York, and his fascination with cooking began shortly thereafter. The future chef would regularly arrive home to watch the Food Network after his days spent at elementary school. Once his parents, John and Christine Ulmer, purchased his first cookbook he began preparing meals for the family — notably nachos for Cinco de Mayo — inspired by his grandmothers and the chefs he diligently watched onscreen, according to his sister, Victoria Ulmer.
The pastry lead brought to the restaurants sweets that were vibrant in flavor and hue: dipping pink peppercorn paletas in a kind of raspberry hard shell; baking pink-tinted hibiscus conchas; forming fresh churros into the base for chocolate-drizzled sundaes; and creating his fan-favorite signature, the hibiscus meringue at Damian.
“The bond that we created is everlasting,” Garcia said. “Not only did we become friends but brothers. We would wake up together, spend the day, build a team together, we would leave together and have drinks at the end of every night for months.” After Olvera’s restaurants shared the news of Ulmer’s death, comments poured in on social media from loved ones, acquaintances and recent and past colleagues.
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