A tiny East Village restaurant has the vision—and means—to transcend the predictable.
Photographs by Lanna Apisukh for The New YorkerNew York is a phenomenal restaurant city, but it is rarely a thrillingly innovative one. As usual, we can blame capital: The cost of operating a food business in this viciously expensive town makes risktaking far too risky. So it’s exhilarating to encounter a meal that’s genuinely, a style of cooking not easily summarized in a sound bite.
The frequently changing lineup might include anything from fish dishes like tuna crudo to kangaroo tartare.is a riff on the Japanese egg custardPhotographs by Lanna Apisukh for The New Yorker
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