Jostling through crowds of Germans and tourists in the Rhine River village of Bacharach, I climb to the sundeck of the ferry and grab a chair. With the last passenger
Rick Steves barely aboard, the gangplank is dragged in and the river pulls us away.
People are also reading… The sheer bulk of history that has poured through this river valley rouses any romantic soul. It was here that the ancient Romans decided to call it an empire and draw the line that defined their vast holdings – separating barbarians to the north from the civilized world. It was here that Prussian General von Blücher used an innovative pontoon bridge to cross the Rhine and flank Napoleon’s forces .
All along the Rhine, it seems each castle and every rock come with a story. Many of the castles were"robber-baron" fortresses built by petty princes and two-bit rulers back when there were over a hundred independent little states in what is today's Germany. The castle owners raised heavy chains across the river when boats came – and lowered them only when the merchants had paid their duty.
Our boat survives the Loreley and docks in St. Goar, a classic Rhine tourist town. Its hulk of a castle overlooks a half-timbered shopping street and leafy riverside park, busy with sightseeing ships and contented strollers. Sitting like a dead pit bull above St. Goar, Rheinfels Castle rumbles with ghosts from its hard-fought past. It's the single best Rhineland ruin to explore.
Wire Easytravel101 Tns Travel Rhine Lorelei Sankt Goar
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