Review | Healthy food is an app click away, but we’re eating more junk than ever. How did we get here?

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Review | Healthy food is an app click away, but we’re eating more junk than ever. How did we get here?
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Book review: Healthy food is an app click away, but we’re eating more junk than ever. How did we get here?

That contradiction is at the heart of British food journalist Bee Wilson’s astute, wide-ranging “The Way We Eat Now: How the Food Revolution Has Transformed Our Lives, Our Bodies, and Our World.”

What’s to blame? Among the contributors she details are evolutionary biology, international investment in junk-food companies, restaurant marketing and portion inflation, family and work changes, a flood of cheap vegetable oil, relentless snack promotion in developing nations, the rise of restaurant home-delivery services, and the way our brains don’t register high calories in liquid form.

She writes like the busy mom that she is, caught up as we all are in the whirlwind schedules and demands of modern life. While she promotes civilized, set-aside mealtimes when possible, she eschews an overly nostalgic view of centuries past in which women spent hours a day preparing meals because they had no freakin’ choice. She also has an endearingly single-minded grudge against bland Cavendish bananas.

The author Bee Wilson. That’s where Wilson’s optimism kicks in. She thinks we have at least a fighting chance of following those four nutritional stages with a fifth one in which we concentrate on the quality as well as the quantity of food, find time for the preparation of it and make it economically feasible for even the poorest among us to eat healthily and pleasurably.

In 2016, it “had the highest average consumption of sugar-sweetened beverages on the planet,” its citizens “eating unusually large quantities of salty snacks and chips and packaged sweet desserts.” Among Latin American countries, it had the second highest rate of obesity after Mexico, 66 percent when 35 years before it was more common to be malnourished.

If such laws are to stick, inducements to eat better, she says, will include more affordable vegetables, bred for taste over size and supermarket stackability.

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