See every look from Paul Smith's spring 2023 collection:
later with the review , this review duly starts with a double-apology to Paul Smith. “The collection is based around the idea of holding on to the idea of the summer, but putting on a suit over it,” said the designer down a patchy video call from London to his showroom on Rue Des Archives.
That feeling of summery anticipation spiked by the cloud cover of dutiful obligation was nicely expressed across a collection that was rich in Smith’s signature tailoring—France is a key market for his sartorial womenswear, incidentally—brightened up by ombre striping and richly colors in lining and cloth. A sleeveless double-breasted jacket with prominently built shoulders in a Tuscan ochre was matched with a same-color silk shirt and Smith’s hip-skimming breaky pants.
Smith said he had developed a conceptual feminine cousin to the three-piece suit in looks that combined satin shirt, bustier, and those flattering pants. Mens’ shirting was lengthened at the yoke, deconstructed at the collar, and transformed into breezy dresses, some decorated with variations of postmodern pinstriping. This was also deployed in lurex in his signature multi-hued colorways on a fitted knit dress. Trenches were oversized and trimmed in leather.
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