Sofreh chef Nasim Alikhani’s new cookbook offers recipes for Persian food and the story of a chef who defied the restaurant industry’s ageism.
, co-written with Theresa Gambacorta, is out from Knopf.
If Alikhani’s being honest, a conferral of legitimacy like the kind she received from the Beards is meaningful to her. “Finally, I’m seen for what I knew I have always had, and that’s why I am where I am,” she says. “That’s not from a point of arrogance.” But she shies away from sounding too individualistic. This Beard nod is also a sign that her belief in her staff’s greatness wasn’t delusional. Getting any medals won’t change the tenor of their work.
“They look, they see an older woman — and I emphasize on the older, because it’s an industry, and it’s a culture that celebrates youth.”she began interning at restaurants. The former was empowering; she could feed hundreds of guests even without the help of a prep cook. But knocking on doors of restaurants where she wanted to stage was a different story.
And then there’s the food. Motamed notes that Iranians in the diaspora can sometimes be protective of their own cuisine. “‘It’s not like my maman’s’
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