In the golden age of the slice, Scarr Pimentel treats pizza like a form of art.
At the new Scarr’s Pizza, across the street from the original location, lines for a slice run down the block and around the corner.Sign up to receive it in your in-box.
Is it worth it? I don’t know how to answer that question, and I’d be skeptical of anyone who claims that they do. All pizza is relative, New York pizza doubly so. Millions of words have been written and uttered on where to get a great slice in this city, ranking the best of the best, mapping optimal itineraries for crawls and tours.
The restaurant’s owner and founder, Scarr Pimentel, grew up in Hamilton Heights, in a sprawling Dominican family; as a teen, he landed a busboy job at the celeb-magnet Nolita restaurant Emilio’s Ballato, where he started learning the basics of turning flour, yeast, and water into dough. He moved on to pizzerias—Artichoke Basille’s, known for its gargantuan slices, and Lombardi’s, arguably the birthplace of New York pizza—and began to refine his own sense of pizza perfection.
Pimentel has held the lease on the new space for a few years but took a while figuring out what to do with it. There were plans for an all-vegan pizza shop, or for some sort of partnership with Danny Bowien, then of Mission Chinese. In the end, Pimentel’s move was straightforward: make it a bigger Scarr’s. The new restaurant is three times the size of the old one, and the whole mood is different: the basement-brown has been ditched in favor of a palette of glossy white, black, and royal blue.
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