An exhibition at The Jewish Museum tells the story of founder Gaby Aghion and her enduring influence.
Gaby Aghion in the desert near Alexandria, Egypt, photographed by Raymond Aghion, ca. 1940–45. Courtesy Philippe Aghion and Chloé Archive, Paris.open now at The Jewish Museum in New York City, aims to set that straight. Curated by Choghakate Kazarian, the first major museum show on the legacy of Aghion’s work tells the multifaceted story of the French fashion powerhouse in all its delicate detail.Photo by Julien T. Hamon. Courtesy the Jewish Museum, NY.Photo by Julien T. Hamon.
"Astoria" dress designed by Karl Lagerfeld, spring–summer 1967, hand-painted silk crepe by Nicole Lefort. © Chloé Archive, Paris.Blouse designed by Phoebe Philo, spring-summer 2002, silk crepe. © Chloé Archive, Paris.Aghion was born to upper-class Jewish parents in Alexandria, Egypt, in 1921. It was customary for upper-class Egyptian Jews to speak French, and Aghion and her mother were particularly taken with French culture and fashion.
When creating Chloé—named after a friend, and because she liked the roundness of the letters and the Frenchness of the name—Aghion was not interested in haute couture but solely focused on ready-to-wear. Her first show, in 1957, balanced the playfulness and femininity that would become cornerstones of the brand, with models strolling through breakfast at the Café de Flore.
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