I Make These Breakfast Noodles When I Want to Transport to My Ancestral Home Region
, an aspiring early riser who seeks to explore the culture of mornings and rituals of breakfast around the world.
While visiting my grandmother in Jiaxing, the city in Eastern China’s Zhejiang Province where my mom grew up, I walked into the kitchen to find my uncle scraping the fat from theleft over from the previous evening. The collagen-rich sauce was now solidified and jelly-like after its overnight stay in the fridge, a milky-white layer of fat covering the surface like ice atop a frozen lake.
I was still in college at the time and had just begun to take a greater interest in cooking, so I watched curiously as he coaxed the spoon around chunks of meat suspended in the gelatinous mixture, then deposited the fat into four soup bowls. That wasn’t where I’d expected the fat to go. Growing up in the U.S., I’d witnessed on many occasions my aunties and uncles skimming the lard from pork braises and discarding it—to minimize caloric density, I guessed, or stave off blood clots. I asked my uncle if he didn’t plan to do the same. He gaped at me with an expression between bewilderment and horror.
I followed my uncle around the kitchen as he heated up homemade broth on the stove, then boiled water in another pot to make noodles. As the two vessels bubbled away, he swiftly chopped scallions and deposited seasonings like soy sauce andADVERTISEMENT
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