This epic Christmas Eve dinner party is an Italian American tradition—here’s how to make it at home with a menu featuring steamed lobster, crab toast, and more.
In my Italian American family, dinner is an endurance sport. Asking for thirds is smiled upon—in fact, nothing will endear you to us faster. But please be forewarned that the pasta dish you’ve just been handed is but one in a long line of courses: It will be followed by heartier mains. You should expect to spend at least three hours at the table. And don’t even think about glancing at your phone.
We all cheerfully tie novelty plastic bibs over our holiday finery before we crack into the claws, a sound as profoundly reminiscent of Christmas to me as carols or sleigh bells. The rest of the menu evolves as trends change, and friends, roommates, partners, and neighbors who have no place else to be on December 24th join the party. You don’t actually have to be related to anyone at my family’s table to be welcomed into the fold.
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