How Rick Owens’s Bestselling Sneaker Has Been Charming Goths and Suits for 20 Years

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How Rick Owens’s Bestselling Sneaker Has Been Charming Goths and Suits for 20 Years
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The designer's much-copied Geobasket style may have caused waves when it debuted but in a sea of oversized sneakers it feels downright conservative.

are nearing 20 years old, but the marble table displaying them at Bergdorf Goodman’s men’s store still gets plenty of action. Hip males in their 20s and dads in business suits stop by in equal measure to touch the luxe calfskin of the boot-sneaker with the exaggerated tongue that has spawned countless copycats. Many of them know a bit about. Those who don’t are likely looking to emulate their favorite athlete, rapper, or rock star.

“Fifteen years ago, the person who was buying a Rick shoe was more joyful and excited to learn about him and I could be more involved in the sale,” says the associate. “Now that original customer doesn’t want it; it’s such a grab-and-go item.” Bergdorf Goodman Personal Shopper Anthony Stropoli was an Owens devotee from the beginning, when Atelier on Crosby Street was the first to carry the designer’s collection. Stropoli has more than a dozen pairs of Owens sneakers including the Geobasket and the Cargo, which features a zip pouch on the side and he wears them daily to compliment the head-to-toe all-black uniform that he sports to sell to his celebrity clientele. “Rick took classic shapes and uniquely reinvented them,” says Stropoli.

Although the sneaker’s design may have evolved to an understated look, beneath the surface of the leather or canvas still lies the symbol of pushing societal norms. It may be Owens’s legacy—the item he is most remembered for because of its ease of wear relative to the brand’s clothing. They’re the gateway to the Rick Owens universe and footwear has the power to define a moment in time.

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