How Athens Became One of the Most Exciting Dining Destinations in Europe

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How Athens Became One of the Most Exciting Dining Destinations in Europe
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Here's how and why to experience some of the best restaurants in Athens, Greece now and how chefs have led the food destination's evolution with incredible local ingredients.

The groundbreaking restaurant Delta is perched atop the Stavros Niarchos Foun- dation Cultural Center, which houses Greece’s National Library and National Opera.As part of the 12-course tasting menu at Delta in Athens, diners are presented with a magical sunflower trompe l’oeil. The flower might have a center of preserved mustard seeds with a fermented blackberry glaze over grilled sweetbreads, surrounded by “petals” of pickled and crisped saffron-stained leeks.

Before his return, Papazacharias worked at such celebrated restaurants as the edgy three-Michelin-starred Maaemo in Oslo, while Feskos served as assistant head chef at Copenhagen’s three-starred Geranium. The pair were lured home by the invitation from the Stavros Niarchos Foundation to open what has quickly become Greece’s most exciting restaurant, housed inside a dramatic glass cube designed by Renzo Piano, above the National Opera House.

“During the crises years, things were so hard, nothing worked,” recalls chef Tasos Mantis of Soil, another local fine-dining sensation. “But even back then, and especially during the pandemic, people started to grow stuff themselves. Small suppliers with incredible products would knock on restaurants’ doors. And now we have a new generation of chefs who are so passionate about local ingredients.”

The movement started in Thessaloniki, Greece’s second-largest city, during the financial crisis, then sparked in Athens with scruffy-chic hyper-locavore spots like Seychelles and Fabrica tou Efrosinou — both still going strong. Today, says Vallatos, it’s hard to keep up with the openings. Late in 2022, he launched red-hot Pharaoh in the diverse Exarcheia neighborhood with partners that include a celebrity Thessaloniki chef, Manolis Papoutsakis.

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