For the Cherriest Cherry Ice Cream, Roast the Fruit 'Bone-In'

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For the Cherriest Cherry Ice Cream, Roast the Fruit 'Bone-In'
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Just make sure you pick out the bones *after* you roast the cherries!

While there's something to be said for a vanilla ice cream shot through with boozy cherries and chunks of chocolate, when I'm craving cherry ice cream what I want is a technicolor scoop of pure cherry intensity, almost like a sherbet—an assertive fruit flavor tempered with a splash of cream and no yolks in sight., I had a pretty decent idea of where to start. But I knew that cherries, with their pesky pits, would require a slightly different approach.

Both were great, but vastly different from each other. Whatever type of cherry you choose, the trick is to roast the cherries whole. You might say it's the"bone-in" method for stone fruit, allowing their flavorful pits to impart an even deeper cherry essence to the ice cream. From there, I pit the cherries and continue cooking them on the stovetop to concentrate their juices, while the pits are steeped in cream to extract even more of that roasted flavor.

If you don't have a pot that can do double duty in the oven and on the stove, it's fine to roast them in a baking dish. Or, for those who'd rather keep their oven off, the cherries can be roasted on the grill in a cast iron skillet, so long as it's. A good-condition cast iron pan is a great way to take this project outdoors, where you can roast the cherries on a grill without scorching them along the bottom.

To make the most of these simple ingredients, I infuse the cream with the reserved cherry pits. They're awash in lingering cherry juice and bits of fruit, plus they can impart a subtle almondy flavor to the cream. I combine the two and place them over medium heat until the cream is steaming hot but not yet bubbling. Then I cover the pot to prevent evaporation, turn off the heat, and steep them until needed, up to four hours.

If you have significantly more liquid, that means it hasn't reduced enough. That excess water in the juices will make the ice cream icy and mild; you'll need to return the juices to the stovetop and reduce them further. If you have significantly less liquid, the lack of water means the proportion of sugar will be high enough to make the ice cream gummy and excessively sweet; in that case, you'll want to top it off with more water to make up for the loss.

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