Julien Dossena has made Paco Rabanne a go-to brand for those who want something completely unique.
There’s nothing quite like the feeling of one of Julien Dossena’s dresses against your skin. In the front row of his Paco Rabanne show on Wednesday afternoon—he has been the creative director there for a decade now—the actress Jemima Kirke was recounting how she’d tried on one of his metal creations, done in expert deference to Rabanne’s unorthodox, space-age creations, in the atelier the day before.
In the audience were industry power players and fellow designers, like Louis Vuitton artistic director Nicolas Ghesquiere , shoe designer Pierre Hardy, and Jean Paul Gaultier. Whether he’s headed elsewhere or not, Dossena this season is poised to elevate himself to a new level of fashion infamy. In a sea of increasingly anodyne and wearable high fashion, Dossena goes his own way.
When he arrived, there was still one worker in the atelier who had worked with Rabanne himself, and helped Dossena perfect his metal mesh technique. Otherwise, it’s Dossena and young fashion school graduates figuring out how to work with unorthodox materials. “I have seen some really young people coming from school a few years ago that now are at the top of the chain mail atelier, let’s say. And they learn on the web. They learned a lot from the archive, also.
Dossena is eager to emphasize the couture quality of much of his output, especially the chainmail, which is now a material used widely in fashion. “Working at Paco, I really put pressure on myself to be the best at that, you know?” But what he seeks most of all is “to make it relevant.”
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