Q&A: Executive chef Azari Cuenca-Maitret joins celebrity chef Joanne Weir at her Silicon Valley venture
He’s opened two dozen restaurants in Mexico’s gastronomic capital, notably Litoral and Balmori, been heralded as the “new face” of the country’s culinary world and cooked in Michelin-starred kitchens in Europe. He’s taught at several culinary schools. Won a reality TV chef’s competition. Written a cookbook. Headed a prestigious association of chefs.
After moving his family — wife Paola and three children — to San Jose, Cuenca started working with Weir early in January on recipe development as the build-out of the restaurant continues. Officially called Copita Tequileria y Comida, the restaurant will feature multiple dining areas, two kitchens, two bars, two menus and Willow Glen’s first rooftop dining. An August opening is forecast.
We chatted in person recently with Cuenca about what he hopes to bring to a new restaurant in a new country. This is an edited version of our conversation:You grew up in Mexico City with both Mexican and French heritage. What are some of your earliest food memories?The smell of the toasting chiles to make a mole dish. The characteristic corn aroma transformed into a handmade tortilla. My mom’s Veracruz-style platanos machos . And freshly made guacamole.
Attendees mingle during the November 2021 announcement ceremony for the upcoming two-story Copita restaurant in San Jose. Chef Joanne Weir and partner-owners Larry and Michael Mindel are opening the restaurant with a rooftop bar at Lincoln Avenue and Willow Street. You were at the top of your game in Mexico City, one of the world’s great food capitals.
The pandemic gave me the chance to slow down, spend some long, quality time in the countryside, and changed the order of my priorities. My family and I were ready for a change and to improve our quality of life.I was already a big fan of the beauty of California. San Jose was so tempting right away. I mean, farmers markets all around, best quality and sustainable ingredients available, Mexican culture very present. And Silicon Valley is a thrilling world.
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