Discover Edeline Lee's fall 2023 collection:
If you were one of the local office workers taking an afternoon stroll along Piccadilly today, you may have noticed something out of the ordinary. Under the grand eaves of the covered shopping thoroughfare Burlington Arcade, attendants dressed in head-to-toe black were handing out copies of The.
Given Lee’s multitude of cultural interests—she noted that the process of essentially taking over a whole block of central London was smoothed by her preexisting relationships with some of the galleries, and past show collaborators including writer-comedian Sharon Horgan and London theater titan Josie Rourke—today’s event marked a return to her preferred method of showing. Still, as Lee notes, she’s never done anything quite on this scale before.
If her objective was to bring a little mirth to an uncharacteristically sunny February afternoon in London, she certainly achieved it. Her own guest list mingled happily with curious members of the public, who gathered to watch the City of London children’s choir sing an arrangement of a Chopin Mazurka in the shadow of the Royal Academy of Arts.
Which brings us to the clothes: diverting as the spectacle surrounding Lee’s collection may be, her staples were firmly grounded in the practical, just with a few more ruffles to match the grandiose trappings of the setting. Adding another layer to her typically sleeker silhouettes with puff details that topped and tailed dresses in rich jewel tones, she also leaned into some uncharacteristically bracing hues, including a highlighter yellow-green and a highly-saturated baby blue.
Lee’s well-honed wardrobe staples have a loyal audience for a reason. Behind the refined elegance of her coats and dresses lies impressive technical know-how and attention to detail—the kind you can only achieve when you produce your clothes in-house and are able to quality check every last hand-wrapped button yourself. Still, it was fun to see her turn up the dial on the drama this time around. “It’s bringing to life how I want my women to feel when they put on one of our dresses,” she added.
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