The restaurants may respect tradition, but they're more than willing to subvert it.
“If you’re going to use caviar, use caviar,” says Nagahara, who adds that he’s not worrying about food cost as he serves ultra-premium seafood and farmers-market ingredients.“If you’re going to use caviar, use caviar,” says Silver Paper’s Hiroo NagaharaSilver Paper opens with drinkable caviar, what Nagahara calls “caviar boba milk tea.” Guests suck caviar submerged in matcha buttermilk through a straw.
“I was thinking about how I love chawanmushi with caviar and I also like king crab,” he says. “Then I was just like, everybody fucking does that. There’s so many menus with that. It’s fucking boring.” “It’s like you have this Japanese base, and then we also have the French influence, but then you also have this American influence of almost like a banana cream pie,” Nagahara says.
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