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is packed. Margaritas, their goblets filled to the brim, are sloshing everywhere. You have to shout to be heard. This is notable because this place is enormous—315 seats across 11,000 square feet; it’s a shivery-cold school night; and the restaurant is stashed in the middle of Capital One Center, the credit-card company’s work-hard/play-hard headquarters in Tysons. At 7:30, there’s not a whole lot of foot traffic.
Here, Erales’s kitchen takes an admirably handmade approach to a cuisine that’s often maligned with shortcuts. Ometeo devotes proper time to crafting salsas , tortillas, and marinades. When the kitchen falters, it’s mostly with seafood. Order the lobster tostada and all you’ll taste is the nutty, oily salsa macha that drenches it—so what’s the point of using the luxury ingredient? A “stuffie tamal” tastes like masa more than anything else, and it’s hard to discern any trace of the shellfish. Fish tacos, with their big hunks of fried hake, look the part but make for a bland bite.
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