Amiri’s fall 2023 menswear collection has arrived. View every look:
Mike Amiri’s runway was floored with an enormous simulacrum of a vinyl record—way bigger than 12 inch—and up on stage alongside tight live accompaniment none other than DJ Premier was mixing the soundtrack. “Nostalgia is super important to me,” said Amiri backstage. “When I was a kid, whether you were a DJ, a basketball player, or a skater, you listened to Gang Starr, you listened to Premier—that’s what you were obsessed with.
The musical producer informed the producer of fashion beyond providing the soundtrack. Amiri said his time discussing DJ Premier’s musical processes—sampling, mixing, reinterpreting, and reinventing—had infused this collection. Once those models were on the runway, walking the vinyl grooves in Amiri’s skate shoes like they were each a fashion-formed stylus, you saw that the designer had returned in part to that golden age of American menswear, the 1950s.
Many models wore varieties of Amiri’s newsboy cap, a personal gesture relating to his ’90s headwear of choice, and sported sweaters and jackets featuring graphics from an imagined Amiri record label; on the sleeve of one Varsity jacket was inscribed, “Some artists make music. Some artists make history.” Record crates aside, bags included a cool little tote designed to resemble an Akai MPC sampler/sequencer and record sleeve folios.
There were fresh reconstructions of the designer’s remixed take on suiting—unified but never rigid or constricting—in top-to-toe looks of frayed, thread-haloed silk, croc-embossed and bleach-blotched leather, and patterned brushed cashmere. Evening versions included bodaciously sequin-strafed button-downs and pants, some in a sort of camo-like pattern Amiri said was originally assembled from studio scraps collected and compiled: “it’s about making something from almost nothing.
Amiri itself has gone from-not-quite nothing—a scrappy Cali denim start-up that blasted its product by shotgun for patina—to something very considerable in a few short years thanks to the founder’s determination and a powerfully enabling group of supporters. Backstage one of those, Diesel’s Renzo Rosso, likened this emerging American powerhouse to a potential “modern Vuitton.
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