Is the much-touted smashburger all that? Our critic finds out
The line to order moved quickly. Three registers were open. Three big planchas sizzled with smash patties, while a fourth was being cleaned.turned out to be a breeze. There’s an OG double-double smashburger, a triple version, and vegan editions of the same, plus kid-size combos. You order the burgers a la carte or as a package deal, with fries. There are fountain sodas from the Dr Pepper combine, and ice tea, sweet or not. That’s it.
Forty-five minutes after my arrival, my number was called. I fetched my Bun B box. I opened it with great anticipation, because finally — finally! — I would get to taste what all the fuss is about. Although Trill Burgersin its first years of life, I was determined not to go until the burgers were available to the public, not just die-hard fans and the celebrity-heavy crowds at festivals like Coachella where the fledgling brand made appearances.
So I bit, and bit again, and in no time had scarfed my way steadily through a burger that I definitely liked a lot. First, for its lively play of crispy frizzle against crispy frizzle. Second, for its clear beefy flavor, thanks to the sourcing from regional ranch player 44 Farms. Third, for the delightfully sweet savor of the grilled onions — more wilted than caramelized, but perhaps that is to be expected when you have been besieged by customers since Hour One.
“What did you think?” I asked the three young women with whom I was sharing a table. “Was it worth the wait?” Two of them answered “yes” immediately; the third made a skeptical face. “If the wait had been longer, maybe not,” she said.
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