The Alaia spring 2024 show has arrived. Creative director PieterMulier sent a collection of refined and modern sculptural shapes and body-driven creations down the runway in Paris. See every look here:
Pieter Mulier’s Alaia show took place over a footbridge across the Seine as tourist boats passed beneath and onlookers clambered to watch from the walls of the Tuileries Gardens. It couldn’t have been more public—a strong contrast to the intimacy of his last presentation, which he held in his own apartment in Antwerp. “For me, that’s what it is about,” he declared afterward. “It’s about extremes. You know Alaia is high heels or flats.
The bridge bristles with lovers’ padlocks bolted to its handrails. It seemed an apt environmental accessory to the obsessively sexualized, latex and visible-thong clad vision of women Mulier was unleashing on the world. “It’s the next step in what I want to say about Alaia,” he said. “Not fetish—that’s not a good word—but it’s personal obsessions that I wanted to do in a way that other people didn’t. Using latex, using leather in a different way.
Indeed ‘time’ was the overarching theme Mulier was talking about—in the sense of the time it had taken to mould and tailor the silhouettes and add obsessive details, “like 35 buttons on a coat.” You could see the time-consuming techniques lavished, say, on the opaque-sheer splicing of horizontal bands of strips of leather and gauzy fabric, winding in varying widths down a floor-length dress.
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