The Hebridean island’s tapestry of pinnacles and lochs are the backdrop to an evolving food scene that’s finding new ways to showcase its world-class bounty.
On the Isle of Skye, rugged shorelines and old Hebridean recipes give way to a diverse food scene, from sweet seared scallops to sherry-scented whisky.While Skye’s chief attractions are undoubtedly visual — the sea lochs, the dramatic cliffs, the rainbow waterfront of capital Portree — the island is increasingly pitching itself as a culinary destination, too.
He’s addressed this with the launch of his first solo venture, Edinbane Lodge, a storied 16th-century coaching inn he opened with his wife Eilidh in stages after 2018, following a lengthy restoration. It’s since picked up numerous accolades, including four AA rosettes.
“If you’d come here a few years ago you might have found a sauce or a cracker, some herbs and a garnish,” he explains. “But over the years I’ve been paring it back — because I know for a fact that you’re never going to get a better-quality scallop than that.”It’s a thrilling time for whisky enthusiasts within the region, with two relative newcomers bringing fresh energy to a longstanding tradition.
For each dram we sample, we’re invited to guess the back story. Colours vary from light chestnut to dark caramel depending on the influence of different casks over time — from new oak to charred wood and those that previously housed red wine, port or Caribbean rum. One particular highlight is a fantastically complex 27-year-old whisky finished in rare Pedro Ximenez-accented wood, with sherry evident through its sweet notes of dried fruit.
Sadly for us, the arrival of Storm Agnes has seen even the hardiest of fishers stay home, so instead of experiencing Rona’s rugged shores, we’re moored in the harbour as seagulls shelter from the wind. Still, Ewen’s storytelling is as impressive as his seafood spread, which, alongside beady-eyed langoustines landed by his brother this morning, includes hot and cold smoked salmon from a father-and-son duo from Mallaig, oatcakes, hunks of sourdough and salad.
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