Trickle of tourists makes Angkor Wat a sublime sanctuary

The Angkor Wat temple in Siem Reap, Cambodia, is usually crawling with tourists. Picture: 123RF/MASTERLU

After two gruelling years with few visitors, Angkor Wat and the hotels and restaurants that once thrived off one of Southeast Asia’s top tourist attractions are slowly coming back to life. With 83% of the population fully vaccinated — eighth-best in the world, according to Johns Hopkins University data — and Covid-19 cases down, Cambodia declared itself open to visitors in November.

In Siem Reap, the road from the airport and the strip to the main ruins are now like ghost towns at night. Hotel after hotel sits dark: of 500 accommodations across the city, fewer than a third are operating.

The return of international flights, however small, and an uptick in visits by local tourists from Phnom Penh are bringing a hint of optimism to the sector. The continued absence of crowds makes a singular experience for those who do make the trip. Per Cambodia’s latest rules, visitors must be able to show proof of full vaccination and a negative PCR test taken within 72 hours of arrival; another rapid test is taken on arrival at the airport.Lara Croft: Tomb Raider

The few of Siem Reap’s high-end restaurants that remain open haven’t lost their touch, spinning Cambodia’s staple ingredients such as coconut milk, lemon grass and river fish into traditional Khmer dishes and a host of curries. They’re intimate and surprisingly affordable for the quality they offer. At Haven, set in a traditional Khmer house flanked by a tropical garden, the fish fillet with green mango is delectable .

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