North Korea’s sacred mountain of dynasties and demigods

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Every year thousands of people make a pilgrimage to Mount Paektu to celebrate the birth of their nation

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Visitors walk towards a cable car station on the shores of Chonji Lake, or ‘Heaven Lake’ in the crater of Mount Paektu, near Samjiyon, North Korea, in this photo taken on September 11 2019. Picture: AFP/ED JONESNorth Korean leader Kim Jong-un’s father and predecessor is said to have been born in a simple wooden hut on the slopes of a sacred mountain, and guide Kim Un-sim has no doubts: “Welcome to our holy land.

Kim Jong-il “was born amid arduous conditions”, guide Kim said, “not in a luxurious house, but in an ordinary, humble log cabin”, with bitter winter temperatures plunging to -40°C. Guide Kim said the secret camp, never located by the occupying Japanese in nine years, was Kim il-Sung’s headquarters from 1936, from where he travelled across Korea and to bases in China “to finally accomplish the historic liberation of the country”.

Outside historians, though, say the founding Kim spent most of the war in exile, as a guerrilla fighting Japanese forces in China and then a battalion commander in the Soviet army.

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