MATTERS OF OBSESSION: The short history of the diamond engagement ring

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ARCHIVES: The universal popularity of the diamond engagement ring is arguably one of the most fascinating and lucrative meetings of custom and commerce. It is also the story of how a concerted marketing campaign changed the world forever.

This deliciously long read focuses in part on the development of the advertising strategy that would take the ancient custom of wearing an engagement ring — often and most reliably traced back to ancient Rome — and turn it into a universal tradition.

While the mining industry began to wreak havoc on the lives of many black South African miners and their families, World War I and the Great Depression also led to a drop in demand for diamonds, as well as a drop in the value of the stones. Additionally, as per Epstein’s reporting, the notion of a diamond engagement ring had never taken hold in Germany, Austria, Italy, and Spain; whereas, in England and France, it was still seen as desirable for aristocrats.

In addition, NW Ayer also proposed getting fashion designers to talk about the “trend towards diamonds” on radio shows. Then there was also the plan to rope in the royal family by getting the royal couple to wear diamonds rather than any other jewels. “Queen Elizabeth later went on a well-publicised trip to several South African diamond mines, and she accepted a diamond from Oppenheimer,” Epstein writes.

Then came the now world-famous slogan which would later become the official motto of De Beers, written by a copywriter at NW Ayer: “A Diamond Is Forever”.

 

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