Lisbon shrugs off Covid-19 blues as tourists trickle back

On a Tuesday morning, about a dozen people wait for tables outside Zenith, a trendy restaurant in downtown Lisbon that serves brunch and cocktails all day, every day. The spot was popular with tourists before the pandemic, but now locals come, too; it is one of the rare spots that stayed afloat around Avenida da Liberdade, the city’s answer to the Champs-Elysees. Nowadays, Zenith serves as both a reminder of 2020’s casualties and a sign that Lisbon is finally coming back to life.

That means fewer crowds for a city with few remaining public health measures. Masks are required only in certain indoor spaces, including public transit, theatres and museums, but not in most restaurants. Even that may ease soon if the country’s vaccination rate rises further and the number of infections continues to fall, Rita Marques, the country’s secretary of state for tourism, said.

Belcanto, the first restaurant in town to be awarded two Michelin Stars, is a case in point. “We’re almost fully booked for dinner in October, and a lot of bookings are coming in for November and December,” says chef Jose Avillez, whose rise to stardom about a decade ago helped contribute to Portugal’s tourism boom. “Things are picking up.”

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