GASTROTURF: Sauces & Saucemaking: When Generosity ought to trounce Parsimony

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GASTROTURF: Sauces & Saucemaking: When Generosity ought to trounce Parsimony By Tony Jackman TonyJackman8

Years spent at culinary college, taking everything in. Hundreds of thousands of rand spent on setting up your restaurant. Hours and hours boiling down the chicken stock, and the veal stock. A lifetime of expertise devoted to making a beautiful sauce, using the stocks you made earlier, boiling it down with wine, and again with Cointreau, then reducing it with cream. And that, Chef – that little drizzle.

A miserly little drizzle of sauce on your plate and the waiter’s off to the next table. My habit is to beckon them back and ask for a small jug of it. A proud chef will not mind this; in fact, they’ll bask in the warm glow of approval. Because there’s nothing like a sauce to set a great chef apart from an also-ran. And they know it.

My classicist friend reminds me that chefs seem to have gone into this ungenerous mode, and become more and more minimalist, “ever since Bocuse moved away from the heavy classical sauces of Escoffier”.

 

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