Chef Ken Phuduhudu isn’t new to this Jozi strip. I last saw him taking over the kitchen of the Greenhouse before it moved to Sandton. He stayed and strolled further up the open-air ambleway, to where the top chef position had been cut out specially for him at Ethos.
Ken Phuduhudu worked on the Ethos menu, swinging it from grand Greek opulence over to inspirations from all sides of the Mediterranean, of the finest current food-making. While still top end dining, it features simply marvellous ingredients, cleverly created dishes that hint of fond classics. They smack more of excitingly coaxed deliciousness than of champagne oysters now.
Chef Ken even knew beforehand where and with what chefs he wanted and needed to work. He did work at Terroir in Stellenbosch and at the Test Kitchen in Cape Town, at Épicure in Johannesburg, even opening Glenda’s up here in Jozi. Where it’s all about attention to detail. With the onset of the Covid time, he made his own Private Dining Experience company incredibly successful.
He loves Embarc in Parkview, what chef Darren O’Donovan does and even what he accomplished as chef while he was at Aurum. He also likes eating at Modena and Kolonaki, both Parkview restaurants owned by Vassilios Holiasmenos and, interestingly enough, both favourites of other chefs I know. René Redzepi of Noma in Copenhagen is one of Ken’s greatest chef heroes, Gaggan Anand in Bangkok being another.
It is obvious that Tatsakis, softly spoken and gently countenanced, has become very fond of his chef. “I’m planning to surprise him.” He holds his finger excitedly to his lips and I can see he’s dying to tell someone. It might be me. Chris’ son, Giorgio, is responsible for Ethos’ décor. I am seldom interested in décor, I admit, but the first thing I do after seeing the bas relief above the bar that reminds me of a restaurant called Mythos that Chris sold some time back, is look up at what I think are delicately glazed wavy sections on the restaurant ceiling. Gazing in wonder, I seem to detect a slight movement.
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