Brazil’s grocery stores put alarm tags on steaks as inflation soars

There’s the scavenged firewood replacing cooking gas in kitchens; and the fish heads and bones dropped into stews instead of beef and chicken; and the intricate alarm tags that grocers are wrapping around cuts of steak to discourage theft; and the wave of graffiti that’s emblazoned the word “hunger” in bold letters on building after building.

For Rubia Alves, inflation has meant serving chocolate milk and bread to her two children for dinner. With cooking gas prices up 30% this year, preparing basic Brazilian dishes such as rice and beans had become a luxury she couldn’t afford on the $200-a-month salary her husband earns as a doorman in Brasilia.

Inflation is an old enemy here that policymakers thought they had tamed over the past three decades. But then came the pandemic, spurring global supply-chain disruptions and a surge in commodities that made items like food and fuel pricier across the globe. In Brazil, the pain was compounded by a severe drought that increased the cost of producing energy and a slide in the currency, which further drove up the cost of imported goods.

One alternative to cooking gas that Recife residents have begun using is ethanol because, he says, it’s cheaper than coal, doesn’t leave a smell like gasoline and is easier to find in cities than firewood. But ethanol’s flame burns blue, which makes it hard to see and dangerous. Barreto is getting so many severe burn cases now — about 50 a month — that he often runs out of beds.The growing gap between rich and poor is becoming starker by the day.

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