Yes, Salad Belongs at Thanksgiving

Editor’s note: Thanksgiving traces its origins to an uneasy, temporary alliance between 17th-century English settlers and members of the Wampanoag Confederacy. This year, Eater is choosing to acknowledge that history in our coverage of the holiday.

A few years ago, a chef friend introduced me to the concept of salad. Not the actual leafy pile, but the purpose that salad can serve when it’s not presented in massive quantities as your entire desk lunch. She had been to dinner at, and between the meat and pasta and foie gras, there had been an escarole salad that she couldn’t stop raving about.

But I’m not 10 anymore, and I’ve come to enjoy salads on their own terms, whether it’s a garlicky, pungent Caesar, spinach in a warm vinaigrette, or whatever vegetables I have in my fridge thrown in a bowl with some yogurt sauce and a hard-boiled egg.

I’m not saying I want salad at the Thanksgiving table to provide a “healthier” option on a night of riches. I’m saying that a crucial component of those riches is a variety of flavor and texture, something that salad does an incredible job of providing when it’s not treated like an afterthought or a punishment. I think of how hearty and refreshing a

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