Photo-Illustration: The Cut; Photos: Getty Images/Shutterstock The word noncomedogenic has been printed on product labels for decades and is meant to assure buyers that the contents won’t clog pores. But what does the term really mean, and how is it regulated? If a product meets the criteria, does that mean it won’t make you break out?
However, the classification itself is not uniformly enforced. “For a product to be called noncomedogenic in many parts of the world, including Australia, the E.U., and the U.K., it has to go through a unique clinical trial — a comedogenicity trial — at an independent laboratory,” says Nausheen Qureshi, a cosmetic chemist. But in the U.S., the term isn’t regulated by the FDA, and because of that, brands can self-certify and use the term at their own discretion.
Likewise, products may also be labeled oil-free to signal that they don’t contain those heavier ingredients. But that term is also unregulated, and according to dermatologist Dr. Joshua Zeichner, it’s a bit of a misnomer. “All creams and lotions contain oils of some kind,” he says. Fatty acids and fatty alcohols are all technically oils and commonly used as thickeners in skin-care products but aren’t considered pore blocking.
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