Golden, perfect. Photo: bonchan/Getty Images/iStockphoto I had spent the entire day in the very cramped kitchen of my 400-square-foot California bungalow washing, prepping, and chopping mountains of fenugreek, parsley, and chives. I was attempting to make ghormeh sabzi, the complex and beloved Persian herb stew. “How dark should the herbs get before I stop frying them?” I asked my mother, Soheila, who was on the other end of the line, guiding me through the recipe.
Yet while the nation baked complex carbohydrates and posted them on Instagram, I had little aspiration for perfectly proofed dough — but I did have entire days to do whatever I wanted, so I decided to try my hand at re-creating the meals my mom had made for me since childhood. I knew the techniques required to perfect Iranian food could be just as demanding as French, Japanese, or any other revered cuisine from the culinary pantheon. It wasn’t any help that most Farsi-language cookbooks, and even directions from other home cooks, are often extremely, almost hilariously, vague. Ask when you’re supposed to take rice off the stove, for example, and don’t expect to hear some measure of time.
When my mother moved to the United States from Iran in the early 1980s, she didn’t even know how to fry an egg, let alone prepare entire meals. So she taught herself by phoning her aunt — ammeh-jan — in Tehran at a time when international calls were either a luxury or a sin, depending on whom you asked. Soon she realized she had a talent for cooking all things Persian, and the way she showed love became food.
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