When this artwork first arrived at a museum, it was refused entry. It now hangs in New York’s Museum of Modern Art.

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Hélio Oiticica found poetry in the layers of a cape, but his real focus was marginalized people.

If you are already thinking that this work doesn’t look much like art — that it’s yet more proof of the folly of contemporary art, and that while fools applaud, you will gleefully point out that the emperor has no clothes — knock yourself out. Scroll straight to the comments.It’s actually a cape, made from jute, fabric, wood shavings and plastic. It was made in 1965 by Hélio Oiticica , one of Brazil’s great 20th century artists, and was reconstructed in 1992.

It hangs today, forlorn and apparently lifeless, in New York’s Museum of Modern Art. But Oiticica didn’t think of his capes — which he called “parangolés” — as static, museum-ready objects. He saw them as poems and protests, objects with their own agency, urging people to put them on and move about in them, so that their layers of colored fabric would be revealed as they ran and danced.

Of course, a fashion designer might say more or less the same thing about a cocktail dress. But Oiticica had some particular people in mind when he concocted his earliest capes. In 1964, he spent time in the favelas, or shantytowns, in Rio de Janeiro. He made a series of capes from cheap and crude materials, and asked some friends from one favela, Mangueira, to wear the capes and come to Rio’s Museum of Modern Art.If the capes didn’t look much like art, museum officials evidently didn’t think the people wearing them looked much like people who should enter an art museum.

 

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