What It’s Really Like to Be Black and Work in Fashion

Photo: Delphine Diallo A few months ago, I received a message that started with the words “Every Nigga.” It was from a black human-resources manager warning me that people in fashion wouldn’t hire me if I had a framed print of the words “Every Nigga Is a Star” in the background of my profile picture. I tried to laugh it off, but it stung.

The song “Every Nigger Is a Star” also played during the Council of Fashion Designers of America/Vogue Fashion Fund 2018 finalist Pyer Moss’s fall-winter 2018 show. Issa Rae then wore one of Moss’s jumpsuits with the phrase embroidered on a black satin sash at the CFDA Fashion awards, as the first person of color to host it in its 37-year history.

There are many reasons for this — financial barriers, social obstacles, colorism, bias, and plain old racism. I heard about them all in my conversations. The stories ranged from covers lost because there was no hair and makeup team trained to do a black model’s hair; to the coded, terrible things people say to black editors, and the ways in which some are asked to explain their culture and vouch for what is cool, yet are denied the chance to contribute in meaningful ways.

Clockwise from top left: An original Dapper Dan coat, 1989; Gucci’s 2017 Cruise Collection appropriated Dan’s design; a campaign image from the Gucci–Dapper Dan collaboration, 2018; a billboard for the collection in Harlem, 2018.

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