Victoria Blamey Distinguishes Herself at Mena

In 2007, the chef Victoria Blamey was offered a job at the end of her stage at Mugaritz, a restaurant near San Sebastian, Spain, that’s considered to be among the best in the world. “She distinguished herself at the fish station,” her Web site mentions, rather modestly. “I’ll bet she did,” I thought to myself as I read that line the other day. At her new restaurant, Mena, in a semi-hidden corner of an unassuming Tribeca hotel, she is serving some of the best seafood I’ve ever encountered.

If gulping down the freshest raw shellfish evokes the experience of plunging into a bracing ocean wave, Blamey’s iteration, one recent evening, managed to double down on that sensation. She topped a trio of plump, creamy Crowes Pasture oysters, from Massachusetts, with seaweed gremolata—including shiso, fermented white peppercorns, and, a type of bull kelp harvested in her native Chile—that somehow intensified the oysters’ brininess, pushing them deeper, colder, cleaner.

Meanwhile, a slab of Boston mackerel, adorned with a tassel of grilled ramps and garlic-chive flowers, was crackly-skinned and deliciously fatty in a way that evoked pork.

On the drinks menu, beneath the cocktails and non-alcoholic options , is the single-entry category “Something Mena.” In Chile, the traditional Latin American beverage chicha is usually fermented, alcoholic, and undistilled, made from fruit, corn, grain, or some combination of the three. Blamey’s version—developed with Arielle Johnson, a food-science Ph.D. who has worked at Noma—is derived from quince and wild rose hips.

This is why people roll their eyes at food critics. What a pretentious and utterly ridiculous headline

Great experience definitely

If I wanted to plunge into a bracing ocean wave, I would plunge into a bracing ocean wave.

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