—and because it can last a while, an important thing as my grocery shops become fewer and farther between. But it’s also because fermented dairy is the key to one of my favorite dinners: a cheerfully green pasta so creamy and tangy and delicious, you won’t be able to look at mac and cheese the same way again.
Based on shish barak, little lamb and pine-nut dumplings served in a garlicky yogurt sauce from the Levant , it borrows many of the same ingredients, but recomposes them on the plate. There’s whole-milk yogurt blended up with garlic and dill for the bright sauce. There’s spiced lamb seared so hard it reminds me of my mother’s charred koftas. And then there’s chewy-sweet dried currants and butter-toasted pine nuts to top it all off.
But what makes this dish everything I need and want right now is how flexible it is. Sure, the recipe calls for full-fat yogurt or kefir, but if all you’ve got is the thicker Greek stuff, just use less and add a bit of pasta water. Only buttermilk in your fridge? Add an extra yolk for more body. No lamb? Any ground meat will work. Or keep it vegetarian with some wilted greens, creamy lima beans, or crisp-tender asparagus instead.
What I’m trying to say is, no matter what you do, everything will be fine. This is a forgiving recipe, which is exactly what we all need right now. That, and a few more pints of labne.Yogurt makes this pasta creamy and comforting without feeling too rich. It is inspired by the Middle Eastern dish shish barak, tiny dumplings filled with lamb and pine nuts in a tangy yogurt sauce. You’ll find all those flavors here but made simpler and brighter with help from dried pasta and plenty of fresh dill.
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