For the clams, for the charcoal-grilled steaks, and for that stellar prime rib. In fact, I’ll go even further: Gallaghers currently holds a place alongside Keens as my top all-around, old-school steakhouse pick.
“Is that Rachmaninoff playing?,” a patron asks the bartender about a classical piano piece piping through the sound system. “Godfather theme,” the staffer replies. Like I said, go easy on the drinks.The larger story, of course, centers around the food. Matthew Maxwell, like so many other New York chefs, oversees a raw bar that sends out plump, cleanly shucked oysters, but a different class of composed shellfish is where Gallaghers truly excels.
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