He also forgoes the confectioners' sugar featured in most versions and uses granulated sugar instead, which pre-dates the powdered stuff, and, he said, creates a more balanced finished product. “Confectioners' sugar sweetens the dessert too much, and it masks the flavor of the filling.” The same, he said, is true of the cinnamon that some have started adding to their iterations of the classic.
“Clients who aren’t familiar with it are sometimes skeptical,” said Bonge, who is the daughter and niece of two of the restaurant's managers. “I think it’s something you either love or you hate.” When she was younger, even the native Niçoise said, “you couldn’t have paid me to eat a tourte de blettes. But as I got older, I tasted it, and what I found pleasantly surprising was that light sweetness.
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